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RE: Possible LP leak??
Hello, Well I finally found the leak. It was getting bad enough we could smell the gas outside while camping this weekend. I got under there yesterday and wiggled on the lines and I had a big leak. The line rusted paper thin inside a plastic sleeve where it goes through the floor to the fridge just behind the back tires.
Lucky there was extra line going to the fridge so I could push the line down to get enough good line to cut off the bad end and re-flare it. A friend we were camping with ran me to a hardware store so I could buy a tubbing cutter and a flaring tool so I could fix it at the camp ground, it all worked out fine and my leak is gone.
Tom
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77Casual
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10/12/08 08:17pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Possible LP leak??
Hi, I have messed with this thing for a couple days now and I still don't know why the LP system won't hold pressure. I have sprayed soapy water on all the connections, on every bit of LP lines under the camper, plugged off the line at the appliances and I can't find where the pressure is going. I even removed the pipe going to the furnace in the back because I thought it might be leaking where it passes threw the floor but that line is fine. By the way it has steel gas lines not copper which I thought was odd. I guess I need to buy one of those LP leak detector things to help find it.
Tom
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77Casual
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07/25/08 12:02pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Possible LP leak??
Hi, I got the bigger tank mounted today. I also rigged up a deal to put air into the gas lines. I turned the off the valves on the fridge, furnace, and water heater and I plugged the line at the stove. I put 15 psi in the lines and I could watch the gauge drop back to 0 in about 30 seconds. I mixed up some soapy water in a squirt bottle and checked all the connections I could get at but I didn't find any leaks. I am going to get some plugs and cap off all the things that run on gas to see if the lines themselves have a problem or if something else is leaking. I put my home made adaptor and gauge in a pail of water when I had pressure in the system to make sure the leak wasn't on that end, no bubbles at all.
Tom
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77Casual
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07/22/08 07:32pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Possible LP leak??
That is also a great idea since the tank is basically empty again and I want to change tanks anyway. I have plenty of old gauges and fittings and a couple of shut off valves laying around to rig up something to put air in the system and be able close it off to hold the pressure in and see if it slowly leaks down.
How much pressure can I put in there and not hurt the fridge or furnace or whatever else? Don't the regulator cut it way down to about 1 or 2 PSI? Or should I leave the regulator on and put the air into the regulator?
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77Casual
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07/20/08 11:57pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Possible LP leak??
Hi, That is just what I was looking for. I figured there must be a way to check for leaks other than checking every fitting and lines physicaly.
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77Casual
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07/20/08 09:57pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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Possible LP leak??
Hi we have a old 84 Midas Kingston and late last summer and all of this summer it seems to go through alot more LP than it used to. It has a very small built in tank and the tank is getting pretty rusty but I can never smell LP anywhere and no one else ever says anything about a gas smell. I just got a much bigger tank out of another old motor home that had the tank replaced some time back so its in pretty nice shape. I plan on switching the tanks one day soon.
My question is, is there a sniffer or something like that I can buy or borrow to check around the LP system for a very small leak? I had the furnace out a while back to clean it and fix the fan motor, I wonder if I maybe didn't get a line tight enough at or in the furnace and it has a very small leak?
Tom
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77Casual
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07/20/08 08:55pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: 1990 Bounder problems
I Sort of got the levelers working, Left rear leaks fluid right through the side of the little cylinder that tips the lift down, the aluminum is corroded right through, Right rear won't fold up by itself, The little cylinder sticks in the down position and the sensor that tells what position the jack is in is missing, Right front won't fold up by itself and sensor don't work, left front folds back up but the main lift won't go back in on its own. The auto level don't work but that is no surprise with only one jack position sensor working.
They would like to have the level system working but it might get expensive to fix, I don't know if parts are even out there for it anymore.
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77Casual
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07/10/08 01:07pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: 1990 Bounder problems
Hi everyone, it took most of the day but I have the auto brake working again. I still need to bleed everything good to make sure all the air is out of the system but it does work the way it should. The valve on the shift linkage that tells the brake its in park had the plunger rusted and stuck. I got the plunger freed up and now the auto brake works in park also.
Thanks for the info on the reverse lights switch, I need to see why they don't work, maybe they did with all the added on and spliced wires, but since I removed a bunch of that mess and hooked up the cut wires back to where they were cut the backup lights don't work.
I am finally getting someplace on this heap, there isn't any exhaust after the muffler and the muffler is junk so I guess that will be next as long as its up on the ramps. The owners have a real old Pace Arrow that we are robbing stuff from, maybe the exhaust is OK on that one and I can make something out of it for this one. If not I will get a new muffler and a bunch of pipe and build something for it.
I am going to look into the leveling system next. O joy LOL.
Tom
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77Casual
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07/09/08 09:30pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: 1990 Bounder problems
It has air bags in the back, I found the book about them in the bag of books inside the motor home. I put air in the air bags, I have to check and see if they still hold air.
Yes I tightend up the brake through a hole in the drum on the star wheel at the top, I had to turn on it forever to get it to tighten up. I hope there is some brake shoes left in there, From the little I can see through the little hole in the drum the shoes look usable yet.
I cranked on the star wheel till the brake was locked up and I then backed it off just to the point the drum turned without to much drag.
The cable has some slop in it but I can't turn the cable adjuster to see how much. I just got some good penetrating oil to spray on it to see if I can get it loose. The biggest problem is I don't have any thing to get in there and turn the adjuster or jam nuts. The drive shaft is in the way and normal wrenches are to big the get any room to turn the adjuster or jam nuts. I might try and see if I can get the nuts loose holding the cable bracket to the accumulator so I can maybe get some more room to get at the cable adjuster, but one of those nuts is pretty rusty also.
Anyone have a idea where the switch for the backup lights is? I looked on the shift linkage the best I could and on the steering colum but have not found it yet.
The metal part on the bottom of the floor is rusted away from a large part of the floor. There is solid foam insulation above the metal. I took a big screwdriver and dug out the insulation above the frame where it was sitting on the wires and got the wires pulled out. I had to fix the wires in a couple spots but I put the cut and bypassed wires back together like it was originaly and the lights all work in the back, except for the reverse lights.
There is a long brown wire cut off something hanging under there and I can't see where it went, I can't find the other end of the wire so I don't know if this wire has something to do with the lights or something else.
The motor home has a leveling system on it also which is all hacked up just like everything else on it. I don't know if I can make it work again or not.
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77Casual
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07/09/08 03:12pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: 1990 Bounder problems
Hi again, I forgot to ask where the backup light switch is on this thing, The backup lights also don't work like everything else on this thing.
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77Casual
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07/09/08 08:53am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: 1990 Bounder problems
Hi, I have a chassis manual with a bunch of service bulletins in the back, some are about the auto-park in the 90 model year. I got the brake adjusted up like it says in the bulletin but I can't move the cable adjustment because it is all rusted up. The brake was way loose and there is a bunch of slop in the cable. I wondered if the brake had way to much travel would cause the oil to spray out of the tank. After I get the cable adjuster loose and other things checked over I will send you a PM about this thing. I sure can use the help on this thing. Everything I touch on this thing gives me trouble.
Tom
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77Casual
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07/09/08 08:48am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: 1990 Bounder problems
Here is a picture of the mess I found when I opened up the dash, after I messed around for ever trying to figure out how to get at all this LOL. The dash just tips up toward the windshield. A picture if the link works that is, I hope I did it right.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v313/TomW/Dsc02106.jpg
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77Casual
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07/08/08 11:52pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: 1990 Bounder problems
Hi, I figured out the problem with the fuel pump, For some reason the power supply wire to the relay has a weak connection. I tried to find where it got juice from but I gave up in that mess. I added in a wire and a fuse hooked to the orange wire at the relay and went to a good 12 volt source and problem fixed. I know its not the right way to fix it but I have spent almost 3 days messing with the wiring on this thing and I am getting sick of it.
This thing even had some of the wires to the turn signal lamps cut, I have half a day in just getting the outside lights to work again and I am still not done, the left side headlights have problems yet, one don't come on at all and the other is real dim, probably a broken or cut ground like everything else on this thing.
I have the front on heavy ramps and it blocked so it can't roll off them and one back wheel off the ground so I can turn the drive shaft to work on the parking brake. I hope I can get that figured out tomorrow, but like everything else on this thing it will be a real pain in the butt to fix that also.
I guess I have to pull the cover off the rear end to see what's up with that. If I turn the drive shaft real gently I can feel the backlash in the gears and they feel tight so I don't know why it has so much slop in it otherwise. Maybe the cross pin is all shot and has the holes all egged out.
Tom
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77Casual
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07/08/08 11:38pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: 1990 Bounder problems
According to the chassis manual the 1990 is a one year only setup with the yellow button and no foot emergency brake, 91 to 93 show a foot emergency brake, basically the whole system is different on the 1990 than the rest.
Anyone know where the fuel pump relay is on this thing? I fixed some of the wiring and put some back the way it was built and now it won't start, the fuel pump is not running. I didn't think anything I did had anything to do with the fuel pump but it must have.
Tom
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77Casual
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07/08/08 02:28am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: 1990 Bounder problems
I have the front wheels on some heavy ramps and the back wheels blocked up.
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77Casual
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07/07/08 08:17pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: 1990 Bounder problems
Hi, No foot parking brake. The more I look at this thing the less I like what I am finding. For a 1990 it is in bad shape, most of the metal on the bottom side of the floor is rusted away, the tail light wires go over the frame near the back and it looks to me like the whole body has sagged down right on the frame, at least its sitting right on the wires and I can see where the rear spring mounts are hitting the floor. I can turn the brake drum on the drive shaft almost 1/4 of a turn back and forth because there is that much slop in the rear end, so I assume the rear end is about to go unless it has some kind of locker in the rear or something. So the parking brake must not be working in park if I can turn the drum that far with it sitting in park.
The wiring is all hacked up going to the back for the lights and tank monitor and the wire diagrams the owners got don't help me at all. I assume the floor shouldn't be resting right on top of the frame? If it is then why do the have the wires laying on top of the frame with the floor on top of the wires? I am wishing I never seen this thing.
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77Casual
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07/07/08 04:54pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: 1990 Bounder problems
Does the oil blow out if you just place the gear shift in PARK and do not pull the yellow knob?
Hi, It don't blow oil out going into park, I am wondering if the brake even works in park, if it was I would think it would blow oil all over then also.
They are saying rain and thunderstorms today for us so I don't know if I will be able to do much with it today.
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77Casual
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07/07/08 07:01am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: 1990 Bounder problems
Hi everyone, I am starting to get a idea on how it works. Sounds like I first need to check and see if the brake itself is good and adjusted up, then fill and bleed the steering and brakes properly. I am not even sure the brake works when the trans is in park.
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77Casual
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07/07/08 01:11am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: 1990 Bounder problems
Its a 454 gas engine. I found a chassis manual in the big bag of books inside the motor home. From the little I was reading it looks like the 1990 brake system was a one year only thing, 91 to 93 is different. It looks like the trans don't have park in it, there is a valve on the shift linkage that applies the parking brake when the shift lever is in park. It also looks like some of them had the parking brake on the end of the trans, not at the rear wheels. It also says the parking brake is on all the time under spring pressure and the hydraulic system releases the brake? He said when it was way low on power steering fluid he couldn't move it because a brake was holding it, which goes along with what I was reading in the manual, so it must be working, but why it blows all the oil out of the tank with allot of pressure when the parking brake is pulled with the engine running I don't understand yet.
There are allot of things on this motor home I don't understand why they are built like they are. Worst part is the wiring is all messed up, and it has more wires in it than our house I think LOL. The owner got hold of the company that built it and they sent all the wire diagrams they had for the thing, so maybe I can figure out some of that mess.
Tom
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77Casual
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07/06/08 09:55pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: 1990 Bounder problems
I think its a Chevy P3 16,000 GVW. Does that sound right? I don't know the wheel base or length of it off hand.
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77Casual
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07/06/08 08:52pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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